Nemilkov Chateau surprised us. It even has a secret hideaway where the owners used to hide their son.

For Pardubický deník.cz, written by Alena Hesounová.

The rural chateau Nemilkov is a fine example of the preservation of cultural heritage. This intriguing landmark was "discovered" during her summer travels by Mrs. Alena Hesounová from the Pardubice region. She even saw the bedroom that contains a mysterious hideaway where, according to legend, the original owners, the Schreiners, hid their sixteen-year-old son from Hitler to keep him from going to war. (Note from the owners: The chateau does have a hideaway, but whether Georg Schreiner truly hid his son there is only speculation.)

During our summer journey through the Šumava region, we found a poster in Velhartice inviting visitors to Nemilkov Chateau. It is the village which we passed on the way here! I felt that our day's itinerary could use something extra, so we gathered more information at a local pastry shop in Velhartice, where a kind lady confirmed that it was indeed possible to visit the chateau in Nemilkov. So, the decision was made. On our way from Velhartice to Klatovy, we got off the bus in Nemilkov and set out for the local chateau.

After walking a few meters, the view of a small rural chateau opened up before us, and the open gates invited us in. We were guided by the owner herself, Mrs. Markéta Kaplanová, a very kind and charming lady who delivered the tour with humor and provided us with many interesting insights.

"I feel more like a chateau maid than a chateau lady," Mrs. Markéta laughed. The chateau was purchased by the Hager and Kaplan families in 2016. Mrs. Markéta soon captivated us with her vivid storytelling, drawing us into the history of chateau life.

The history of the chateau began as most chateau histories do, with a fortress from the 14th century. In the 16th century, renovations transformed the fortress into a Renaissance chateau. The most notable residents were the Schreiner family, who lived there from the 18th century onwards. They were excellent stewards, and under their care, the estate flourished. The educated and progressive Martin Bartoloměj Schreiner added 450 hectares of fields and forests to the chateau, established a brewery, distillery, ironworks with a sawmill, and a hydroelectric power station.

Adolf Schreiner bought a decommissioned steam locomotive and used its boiler to create the first steam-powered brewery in the Klatovy region. The last owner was Georg Schreiner, an art lover.

Unfortunately, the Schreiners were German, and although they did nothing wrong, their heritage was enough for the entire family to be expelled after the war. The Schreiners left a deep mark on the chateau. They were hardworking, educated, and progressive, contributing greatly to the region. But just because they were German, they were driven out. This is another dark chapter in our modern history—one that is often glossed over, and the injustices were never rectified.

The Schreiners' daughter is still alive today. Now an old lady, she lives abroad and has no interest in visiting her former home. She left as a small girl, losing her home, and has closed the Nemilkov chapter of her life. It is undoubtedly still very painful for her, and she does not want to reopen old wounds.

During the Schreiner era, the chateau was surrounded by a park with a fruit and vegetable garden. The Schreiners cultivated conifers there, which they supplied throughout Europe. They correctly surmised that if the trees survived the harsh local conditions, they would thrive anywhere.

When the Schreiners were expelled from the chateau in 1945, the local agricultural cooperative (JZD) moved in. The wife of a local communist official was given an entire wing of the chateau. However, she quickly moved out to an apartment block, as she didn’t enjoy the cold and discomfort.

When the Kaplan family moved in, the chateau was empty. The furnishings, furniture, and equipment had all been stolen or destroyed. There was nothing left but mess and piles of garbage. The first year was spent clearing out the debris, with dozens of containers of waste removed.

Today, the chateau is partially restored. The Kaplan family lives there and has opened it to the public. Because the tours are led by the owner herself, who is essentially showing us her home, it feels more like a visit than a formal tour.

Mrs. Markéta shared with us what life was like at the chateau during the Schreiner era. We saw Mrs. Schreiner's bedroom, which contains a mysterious hideaway where they supposedly hid their sixteen-year-old son from Hitler so he wouldn’t have to go to war. Hitler was conscripting boys that young, still children, and of course, the parents wanted to protect them.

Could ordinary German people be blamed for Hitler and the war? History keeps repeating itself; it’s always the innocent people who just want to live normal lives who suffer from bad political decisions. No one wants war!

While clearing and exploring the chateau, the Kaplan family discovered many interesting things, such as an ordinary-looking window with ingeniously built-in shutters.

The Schreiners were history enthusiasts. If something original was missing, they replaced it with a replica indistinguishable from the original. For example, when constructing a new staircase, they carefully integrated the original Baroque steps.

The heart of the chateau is the ballroom with a chapel. It’s unusual to find a chapel in a ballroom, but it was quite practical. Religious services were held there, and when it was time for entertainment, the chapel was hidden behind a curtain, and the ballroom could be used for dances. The hall thus served a dual purpose—religious and secular. Currently, the hall is being restored. Beneath the damaged paint, the restorer is uncovering the original painting of roses, hence the name “Rose Hall.” Once fully restored, the hall will be the pride of the château.

Concerts are held in the hall, with proceeds going toward the chateau’s restoration. Those wishing to contribute can buy a rose.

The chateau could serve as a textbook on architecture, as it features elements from Gothic to Renaissance to Classicism.

The Kaplan family moved here from a comfortable apartment in Prague. Mrs. Markéta was a former coach of the Czech swimming team, and her husband, Mr. Michal, is a real estate agent and a great lover of antiques. He searches for and buys furniture and equipment for the chateau.

In July of this year, the Kaplans unveiled a memorial plaque on the chateau’s facade in honor of Mr. and Mrs. Mencl . They had spent their summers there from 1962 until their deaths. Václav Mencl (1905-1978) was a prominent Czech historian and conservator, the director of the State Heritage Institute, and the author of many scholarly publications. Dobroslava Menclová (1904-1978) was an art historian, architect, and archaeologist, who studied at the Academy of Fine Arts and was one of our most renowned castle experts. Her life’s work is the two-volume encyclopedia Czech Castles (published in 1972).

A visit to the still relatively unknown chateau in Nemilkov is a great experience. We are witnessing the gradual restoration of the chateau. The testimony of this restoration is offered by the owner herself, who exudes enthusiasm, energy, and passion for the project. Restoring the entire estate to life is a demanding and lengthy task. Some call it an adventure, others a suicide mission, and both are probably true, says Mrs. Markéta. Nemilkov Chateau is a showcase of cultural heritage preservation.

And our unplanned visit to the château turned out to be the highlight of the entire trip!

Original article in Czech: Nemilkov Chateau Surprised Us. It Even Has a Secret Hideaway Where the Owners Hid Their Son